In a mixing bowl, sift in the besan to minimize the clumps. Add semolina, turmeric, salt, ginger, and oil. Add water, a little bit at a time, and stir until you have a smooth batter. Stir in lemon juice.
Grease a 6-inch cake pan or something of a similar size. Bring a few inches of water in a pot to boil and place a steamer basket in the pot.
Just before placing the cake pan in the steamer basket, mix eno fruit salt (or baking soda) into the dhokla batter. Pour the batter into the cake pan and immediately place in the steamer basket. Cover and steam on medium-low heat for about 20 minutes, but it may take longer.
After 20 minutes, place a toothpick in the dhokla to test whether it comes out clean. If it doesn’t, then continue to steam for another 5-10 minutes and check again.
When the khaman is cooling off, prepare the tempering.
To a small saucepan on medium heat, add oil. When the oil is hot, add mustard seeds. Let them sizzle for 30 seconds and add sesame seeds. After another 30 seconds, add green chilis and curry leaves. Reduce heat if it sputters too much. When the green chilis and curry leaves have taken on a darker color, add a pinch of salt, water, and sugar. Stir until the sugar is well dissolved.
Cut the dhokla into pieces and place them in a shallow bowl. Pour the tempering evenly so all the pieces are moist. Let it cool off. Garnish with cilantro and shredded coconut. Serve with chutney and dare I say...masala chai? Good morning.